Ranthambore Day 14

Listening to: Cypress Avenue by Van Morrison

We woke up this morning before sunrise and got picked up by an open safari car that was already filled with 20 other tourists, all Indian. I know I said I would mention the photo taking and staring anymore, and try to move beyond it, but when you're on a vehicle with these people for almost 3 hours, it's very hard to ignore. We were optimistic about the day though and looking forward to being in nature and enjoying Rajasthan's untouched beauty, regardless of if we actually spotted a tiger or not.

Here's why it was such a disappointment:

1. The tour was supposed to be 3.5 hours, but we were back in our hotel after 2.75 hours

2. We didn't stop at any view points, old ruins, or any places to take hoots of the scenery. Most of our photographs were taken whilst zooming down a dirt path

3. We were zooming down a dirt path. Like literally going so fast that besides feeling a bit dangerous, it was impossible to enjoy the nature, nevermind being able to see any animals or stop to look at them if we did spot one. At one point I flew out of my seat, across the aisle, and onto the mans lap who was across from me.

4. Our driver and tour guide were pretty blind considering their job is to hunt out animals for tourists to see. There were multiple occasions where we would spot a huge deer (more like an elk) in the woods with huge antlers and yell STOP! Because they didn't seem to notice them. Of course, because of the speed we were driving, by te time we stopped we were either too far away from the animal, or te commotion of it all had scared it away.

5. When we did stop, we stopped to look at the animals waaaay in the distance, versus stopping for the great antlered elk a meter from the road. This made for horrible photos and horrible visibility.

6. When the visibility was decent, the other tourists all stood (which we were told is not allowed) and shoved and made it so anyone behind them couldn't see. Absolutely no regard for anyone but themselves. The poor old man in front of us struggled to even see the most obvious of things.

7. We stopped for a 20 minute break so that everyone could enjoy their cigarettes and snacks and litter all over the national park.

8. The people on the tour with us were more concerned with looking like the main character in Khiladi and taking photos of themselves and us than the nature itself. Screaming and singing and posing? I'm surprised we saw any animals at all with the amount of noise that was made.

I know I'm sounding like a huge whiner here, but when we were told we were going on an "Indian Safari to search for the Tiger" we expected more. What it should have been called was "An Off Roading Thrill-Ride through the Dirt Paths of the National Park"

We told the hotel owner (Mrs. Mhadu Singh's Dads cousin) that it was disappointing and he said that we were back at the hotel way too early and he wanted to call the tour company (independent from mrs. Singhs tour company) and complain because this was unacceptable. He said that the driver needs to be told that this isn't an F1 race course hahaha.

This afternoon we got picked up at 2 for our second safari. It was clear that our complaints were heard because they had reserved two seats together at the front of the vehicle for us. Although we didn't see any tigers or jaguars, the ride so was so much more enjoyable. We stopped at a few picturesque places, and saw a huge 7ft crocodile! We also stopped for ten minutes when the monkeys and deer started making warning calls to one another... A sign that a large cat was nearby. Unfortunately, we had no luck. But it was exciting nonetheless.

The hotel we are at, Dev Vilas, is gorgeous and amazing by the way. I think we are getting hooked up because of the family relation (same as in Bikaner). All meals are included (buffet style but really yummy), and our room is clean and massive. We each have our own queen bed! We have been sharing since Mumbai. And our room opens to a huge balcony where we have been able to lay out and tan. There is a pool here but we like being in our own private space so we can be skimpy and not worry about the stares. They also have a 90 year old elephant who is so sweet and amazing. We pet her and fed her. She seemed very happy and old and content with her life. Our guess is that she has been in the family for generations.

The owner of the hotel here is very involved with the park and the tigers, and has received many awards and much recognition for his work. He found tiger cubs whose mother had died, and reported the case to the government here. There was much discussion as to what they should do with the orphan babies; give them to a zoo, attempt rehabilitation, or leave them be. All scientists and specialists said that if left in the wild, they will die, regardless of whether or not food was given to them. The team decided to leave food by their den, and allow nature to run their course, despite scientist and government disapproval. They set up cameras to keep track of them. They ended up filming a breakthrough in te field, ands changing the way we understand tigers. In 2011 the cuba father was filmed returning to the cubs, and assuming the role of their mother. Until now, this was unheard of. It is general knowledge/belief that the male tigers simply mate and leave their partners with little care for their offspring. Clearly this is not true, as this tiger came back to his cubs in order to mother them as a widower. National Geographic has already shown great interest in his footage and a documentary is being discussed. He has also written many scholarly articles on his findings here while studying the tigers of Ranthambore National Park. He showed us his videos of the father with his cubs, defending them against a female tiger that wanted to kill them (tigers have an instinct to kill other tigers litters), and other footage of the father being submissive with his babies and playing with them. So so sweet.
I think the work being done here is extremely admirable and I would recommend this hotel to anyone interested in coming here. It's very Eco friendly, and the owners live here and are so happy to tell you about the animals here. Very knowledgable and friendly!

Overall, despite our crappy tour, I've really loved it here. The park is beautiful, and the people are friendly. Our hotel had been wonderful, and we are leaving feeling very relaxed and nice. We wish we could stay another day!