12.25.2012

Merry Christmas.  Had my iphone stolen in Bangkok, eff. Perhaps a blessing in disguise? So bummed out, no more potos or bogging.

Until next time,

Kels

12.18.2012

Kathmandu Day 23.5

I have to write this down before I forget the vivid details.

Ajda and I had dinner at Rum Doodle, the place where Everest Trekkers go after their treks to celebrate. It was pretty dead because its off season but we still enjoyed it! I had vegetarian pizza and Ajda had mushroom and onion. Both were made with Yak Cheese of course. Groups of Trekkers write on giant feet and post them, and there are now hundreds, if not thousands, of feet posted around the entire place! It's so fun to read them all... People get creative (sort of like Topanga Cafe for Vancouverites). The oldest foot we found was from 1995.

We sat around for two hours and decided to call it a night. We bundled back up and took on the evening streets. I'm feeling pretty pro at this point cause I have our little area of Thumal nailed down as far as directions go. Suddenly a tiny coked out hyper Napolese guy jumps in our faces and is screaming "COME COME LOOK COME HAVE FUN JUST CHECK IT OUT COME!" Grabbing our hands and smiling and being super stoked on life. We hear Gangnam Style blasting from the basement.... Ajdas anthem at the moment. We decided to walk downstairs and check it out, because why not?it was only 8pm, and we were clearly making this guys day.

We walk in, and that's when my brain turns to scrambled eggs.

The song is on repeat, full bass max volume. The club is dimly lit with red lights, and there's about 8 booths around a low, checker tiled stage. Seizure inducing strobe lights and flashes and disco bulbs are going off everywhere. We have to scream to hear one another. "WHERE YOU FROM?!??!" Little man yells.
A menu is thrown in our faces, and everything is super overpriced. Beer is the most expensive thing, but we quickly realize we don't want to risk ordering a mixed drink, and we don't want to cause any problems by refusing to buy anything, so we splurge and share a Tuborg. On the stage, a man... I mean woman.... I mean man.... Is dancing in high heels 3 sizes too big for his/her little stubby feet. Her boxers are also showing as she thrusts her hips and her dress rides up to her hips.
We look at each other in disbelief. Huh?!???
We look around and see that we are the only guests in the bar/club and everyone else is either a sketchy looking Napolese men ("wanna buy hasshhhhhh") or tranny womenmen.
A ladyboy approaches Ajda. "YOUR HAIR SO BEOOTIFULLLLL" Shehe said, petting her hair and holding her cheeks. She kept repeating how beautiful Ajda was and touching her, clearly high on some sort of club drug that made her love the world.

A group of three guys walk in with the same guy who had prompted us into the place. "WHAT THE FUCKING FUCK DID WE JUST WALK INTO?" Said one of the kids in a North American accent. Exactly our thoughts. They booked it out of there before they were ushered into a booth like us. We were desperately trying to make eye contact with them, hoping that they would pleeeeease join us so we didn't feel like the only people in the world. But they had tunnel vision set on the exit and didn't even notice us.

After Ajda got some good footage of the stage dancing, we drank our beers in about two gulps, and got the hell out off there. Total time spent in bar: 7 minutes.

We walked the rest of the way home laughing our asses off in total confusion.

What just happened to us?

I didn't feel comfortable whipping out my iPhone so I unfortunately didn't get any photos of our experience but Ajdas footage will be up eventually.

Photos below are of the awesome dinner joint we went to. Might go back tomorrow!

New slogan:
NO RICKSHAW
NO TIGERBALM
NO HASHISH
NO 10 RUPEES
NO I DON'T LIKE
NO SEXY
NO GUIDE
Namaste!









Brrrrrrrr

Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.



Kathmandu Day 23

I really like it here! It has enough crazy to make you feel like you're on another planet, but enough spirit to bring you back down to earth.

Today we walked and walked and walked. We woke up at 8am and went to the Monkey Temple, which took us an hour to walk to and then another 20mins to climb the 365 steps that rival the chief in vertical degrees. Formally known as Swayambhunath, this stupha doesn't have as many monkeys s the one we went to in Jaipur. This holy place belongs to the Tibetan Buddhist branch. It was really awesome to see! Not much to do there but walk around and take photos, but that was fine with me.

We then walked around for a few more hours until our breakfast of oranges was no longer sustaining us and we grabbed lunch. Walking around, we saw how the meat is "stored." Essentially,cut meat is layed out on tables on the edges of the street for people to come and buy. Tere is no refrigeration, nothing covering the meat to protect it from flies and dust (our snot is the blackest I've ever seen), and it's sitting in direct sunlight. It's cold here when the sun isn't shining.. But definitely not cold enough to keep meat. I've already been pretty vegetarian this trip... But the sight of the conditions here was enough to also make Ajda a veg too. At lunch she tried Hot Tibetan Beer.. A strange mix of hot water and mead. She's not sure how she feels about it haha.

We also got sun on our faces today! The high altitude makes a world of difference because the only sun we managed to get was between the shade of the buildings in the fit streets, and at the Stupa.
We were really excited to see the river today, we thought we might walk along it and hang out there a bit. WRONG! The river is better described as a garbage dump. It is absolutely sick how much trash is in it. There were pigs and weird nuclear hybrid fish swimming around in the muck. You can see in the photo I posted below.

Walking around the streets I also spotted a Space-Invader tile! So cool. I love that street artists work all over the world.

A little girl gave me a rose today. When she handed it to me I almost didn't take it expecting for someone to quickly demand I pay them for it, as it was in India. But no one came. It's so nice to be around people who are a bit more kind.

We also switched rooms. They had put us in a deluxe room yesterday because their budget rooms were filled (which we had booked). I'm so happy to be in a budget room it is SO MUCH NICER than our "deluxe" room. It's smaller, and it faces the sun so... Even though its still icy cold... It feels a bit less grungy. Also, the carpet in our last room wet, making the room damp, which only made it feel even more freezing. We no longer have a little washroom attached to our room but that's fine with us. Yayy for budget rooms! I would recommend this guesthouse to anyone coming to Thamal area. It's nice and central, they have free airport service, and the rooms are clean. It is really cold though... We have resorted to using our synthetic paper thin sleeping bag liners in hopes that they give us extra insulation. They also have a generator for night when the cities power is out.

Tonight we are going to check out RumDoodle earlier for dinner and hanging out. Tomorrow we will take a taxi to a farther part of Kathmandu and see some more sights and walk around. Looking forward to it, after a good stretch and sleep. It's only 5pm and I'm exhausted!





















12.17.2012

Hyderabad/Kathmandu Day 22

Listening to: Devil Got My Woman by Skip James

This morning we gave ourselves an hour and a half at the airport, which we were told was more than enough time. It wasn't busy at all... And that made us happy because it was 4 30am and we didn't want to deal with India's organizational issues.
Just when we thought that for once, things ran smoothly and efficiently and on time, we take 45 minutes to get through the works smallest security line. You see, in India, men and women have different security lines. There were about 15 lines for men, and two for women.

I understand their need for two lines. A lot of Indian women wear complicated saris with metallic embroidery, and with the high Muslim population, many women prefer to be scanned in private.

Here is my issue: the metal detectors aren't even being used, as in they are functional, but they chose not to use them. So literally every single woman has to go into a little room and be manually metal detected and body searched. For someone like me who is wearing virtually zero metal, and spandex pants, the whole situation is extremely frustrating. If I don't beep in the metal detector, and you can physically see the outline of my body, why should I have to wait an hour in line while you slowwwwwly scan everyone else??

This process wasn't new to us... We have had to go through it at every terminal. But usually they have a sufficient number of women working to handle the line. The men's side had no men waiting and they still wouldn't let those of us who don't care about who waves a wand around us go through there side.

Then slowly but surely panic struck because everyone starting to realize that their gates close in 5 minutes, 20 minutes, etc. so then everyone is panicking and racing to the front with zero regard for those around them. We watched as people pushed and shoved and stomped all over the trains of one another saris. So ridiculous. The lack of consideration for one another in this country really disturbs me. People have a fight of flight mentality everywhere. I'm hoping Nepal will be different.
Anyways, we made it to our gate for closing time and slept all the way to Delhi.

I'm now at the airport in Delhi waiting for our flight to Kathmandu. Already have spotted a bunch of grungy kids with backpacks and matted hair walking around either solo or in pairs. I've found my people! I'm so ready to live a little.

..... (Many hours later).....

First impressions of Kathmandu:

First of all, we were given a FREE BEER on or flight... So we took this as a sign that Nepal was going to be awesomeeeee

We walk out of the airport and a young guy round our age pulls up from out guesthouse in a suped up 1980 something Honda. We drove through the streets of Kathmandu listening to Akon 2008 with his sub and bass turned up to max. Pretty badass, people were looking.

Our guesthouse is super simple and clean and friendly. There's a young blonde dreadlocked couple across from our room who gave me a nice big hello. There's also been a lot of Trekkers around! I finally fit in with my spandex and runners and fleece. I think this is he only time Ill ever think stereotypical west coast style is fashion forward.

We walked out from out hotel after we dumped our bags, and decided to spend the evening strolling the streets. We did a little shopping- we are now pros at haggling.
I bought a hemp shirt designed and made by a local girl here. Her shop was so authentic and awesome compared to he other typical tourist shops that sell the same stuff over and over... And her designs are amazing! I didn't mind spending a bit more money to support her, so I bought an organic hemp tee with Harry Krishna riding a motorcycle on the front. I laughed so hard when I saw it... She nailed the clashing of culture that we've been so confused by for the last 3 weeks.
I might have to go back and get another one... Her stuff was great! And I shipped a lot of my clothes back to Canada already.

Tomorrow I think we will go see some sights and walk around some more. So far so good, Nepal!

Off to find somewhere for dinner.

Ps. Ajda was a little sleep deprived and crazy today. She took some of her aggression out on her pen while writing postcards.
OH, and that creepy person with the masked face? Also Ajda, KO'd on the plane

PPS. We have progressed from a lesbian couple to a gay couple. We have both been called sir today... Maybe I need to start wearing mascara...


**update***

Got ripped off at some tourist restaurant tonight. They had a love show, and Everest beer which was cool! We tried to go to a local bar where all the Trekkers go called Rum Doodle but it was closed when we got there. There is no power here at night so we got freaked out in the dark streets and settled on a cheap bottle of red and our 1980s TV set (our guesthouse has a generator and we splurged 2 extra dollars for a deluxe room!). It doesnt work by the way. Goodnight!





















12.16.2012

Hyderabad Day 21

Listening to: Don't Look Back by Télépopmusik

We are the most relaxed and pampered goddesses ever. Ommmmmmm.

We had an organic hour long massage and and organic hour long facial each. It was amazing! We arrived half an hour early to steam and shower, and then proceeded to be pampered for 2 and a half hours complete with teas and detoxification and everything. Lalalala.

I've never felt so spoiled.

Tomorrow we wake up at 3:30am start making our way to Kathmandu. I must say, my last day in India was the cherry on top of it all.

Let the backpacking games begin.

Going to bed very early smelling delicious, with a belly full of tea and glowing skin. Milking this massive Egyptian cotton bed for all it's worth! I have a feeling it's going I be a lonnnng time until I feel this clean again.

Happy calm clean après-spa me below.
Namaste!

12.14.2012

Hyderabad Day 20

Listening to: Realist Alive by Clams Casino

I spy with my little eye Ajda in a dining room!

I spy with my little eye Ajda trying not to laugh

I spy with my little eye Ajda across from me at a romantic dimly lit dinner (cause apparently here in India we are a lesbian couple)

We had a day at the pool today, followed by a tour of her aunts home that is almost completed (on the property beside the palace) and then a historical palace tour with a historian. He was really cute and old... But he either was in love with Ajda's aunt or obsessed with the palace because at one point when he was talking about the restoration Esra did... He started crying... In front of the entire group. It was sweet and strange. I wasn't sure how to interpret his emotion.

I've finished two books here: pool read White Girl Problems; a Memoir by Babe Walker... Could only continue the book after the first chapter knowing that the psycho main character was fictional. If I'm going to read brain candy I'd rather it be Chelsea Handler!
I've also (almost completely) read Proof of Heaven by Eben Alexander III M.D. Which is quite interesting. I prefer fiction, but his perspectives and experiences on afterlife are really intriguing.. And recite concepts of what he says are concepts I've always sort of felt I've known deep down, if that makes sense? Many other writers describe what he describes also. Voltaire says "he is but an atom in mud" (or something along those lines, my memory is a bit rusty). The Dr experiences this when his brain dies. I don't know, I don't feel like getting into the meaning of life right now, nor is that what this blog is meant to be for, but basically this dr.s concepts are bang on with what I've always believed. Sort of cool. Sometimes while reading it though I thought it sounded like the good doctor perhaps dropped acid and was stuck in some weird trip. He sees sounds and hears colors for crying out loud. If that's not the stereotypical acid trip, I don't know what is. definitely an interesting read though!

Ajda read The Glass Castle by Jeanette Wills (my aunt recommended it to my mom who recommended it to me who recommended it to Ajda.... We all LOVED it. Please read it if you haven't, you will love it too)
And The Pelican Brief by John Grisham which she powered through in two seconds and is obsessed with. All I've been hearing the last few days is " GASP he killed another!" "EW! He killed someone else" "OH MY GOD what NOW?! He killed her!" Haha so, she recommends it if you haven't read it or seen the movie.

Tomorrow is our last day in paradise. Pool, lunch date, massages, and facials. AHHH it's been nice. Back to reality in t-minus two!!!





























12.13.2012

Hyderabad Day 18 & 19

Listening to: Paris... Demain Matin by Djako

I know what it's like to be a princess.

As somewhat "honored" guests here at Falaknuma Palace, our arrival was as grand as it would have been if we were arriving in the palaces hay day. We were picked up at the airport by three men... Someone who assisted us with our "bags" aka backpacks (oh my god how silly and ironic did that feel! Having a man in a suit wheel our huge backpacks for us Hahahaha), a butler, and a driver.

We loved it here the moment we desperately stepped off of the plane. Perhaps the air smelled so fresh because we had been breathing in recycled airplane air after someone had vomited curdled milk. Regardless, it was fresh and warm and soft to breath in after Delhi.

The streets are so much calmer! Still crazy by North American standards, and they still prefer to use their horn when given the option of horn or brake, but somewhat miraculously it seems that drivers here have opted for using their eyes, their mirrors, and their common sense before laying on their horns. A miracle!

We pull up to the palace gate and have to go through the standard car search and metal detector routine that is now compulsory at all Taj Hotels. Then we are greeted by a real, antique, fully-function carriage complete with a gold-thread embroidered sun umbrella, a foot man, a driver, and two white horses. The princess experience begins.

We arrive and are greeted by two heads of the hotel, as well as more butlers, and a man with a scepter. We were offered a choice of three welcome drinks: Perrier, ginger lime water, or jasmine perfumed water... All hand squeezed (of course). We were shown the view while we finished our drinks and cool rose scented towels were placed on our foreheads.

Then the man with the scepter did some routine where he walked up a step and stomped and repeated this action then walked, etc etc. we were told this is what would have been done when the palace was used by the royals. As we followed him up the stairs towards the lobby, we suddenly felt things falling on us. We looked up and literally thousands of rose petals began sprinkling down on us. We tried our very best not to completely lose our shit at this point because... Princesses do not lose their "shit", and that's the role we had to play. It was beautiful, but both of our faces were bright red.

Before we entered the lobby, which is not really a lobby because the hotel is laid out as if it were in its glory days and is well lived in, we were sprinkled with rose water and given a bracelet of little white flowers. We're were then introduced to ANOTHER butler who took over and showed us around a bit.

This place is huge! And complicated. We saw the old library first. It contains 5000 books, many of which are first editions, including an original book by one of the titanic survivors, and a complete Encyclopedia Britannica. Then we were showed some of the gardens, the two restaurants, the gym, the spa, and the gorgeous pool (which I'm dying to get to!). We learned that the pool was formerly the water reservoir, and that the banyan tree that shades it is more than 100 years old. The pool is completed with a small waterfall that cascades down a natural rock. It's very well done.

That's something about this place... It's very well done. You don't feel as if you are in a hotel, you feel as if you are a guest in the palace. There's seating areas and carpets and antique furniture in the halls that makes the whole place feel very comfortable and loved in. There's no cutting corners on costs in this place either. The richest fabrics, finest stone and wood, and tiny attention to detailed everywhere, including the murals, all adding to the rich warm feeling it evokes.

Our room is more like my dream apartment. The ceilings are super high, and the motif is a warm sage green color. There are 4 rooms:
The living room, which had a seating area, TV, writing desk, coffee table, and balcony access.

The bedroom complete with a small canopy of the king size bed, Egyptian cotton sheets, lots of windows, a TV, desk, and access to the balcony, which overlooks a fountain and courtyard.

The dressing room, designed for two, with closets and a stand up mirror.

The washroom has an amazing shower, double sink, huge bathtub against a huge complexly mirrored wall, candles, all the amenities including body scrub for the bathtub, a thin daytime robe each, and a thick plushy robe each (which we slept in!)

All rooms are decided by shuttered wooden doors, including the main entrance to the hallway (glass doors are also there to provide more privacy.

Ajdas aunts personal maid of ten years is here to assist us. It's going to be awesome having clean clothes! She is a very sweet woman we like her a lot.

The food here is great. We were assured we can eat anything and everything here with no risk... So yesterday Ajda had prawn curry and I had a traditional Huderabad curry with chicken. Both were excellent. Tonight we will try the hotels other restaurant that has Mediterranean cuisine... I may even be bold and order steak!

Today I had poached eggs, fresh fruit, fresh oj, fresh apple carrot ginger juice, a glass of champagne, and half a croissant for breakfast. See- told you I know what it's like to be a princess! After we visited Chowmahalla Palace, which was closed to the public (Fridays are Hyderbads Sundays) but open for us! Amazing! Ajdas aunt has fully restored it and it is now a museum open to te public. There are many old photographs (see the one of Ajda beside her aunt and uncle below!), and personal belongings there like china and weapons... some are a couple of hundred of years old. This is also where her aunt had her coronation. The hall is absolutely beautiful, photos will be below. She still throws parties in another area of the palace grounds, not open to the public, which we were able to go see. My favorite part of the museum, besides the grand , were the costumes on display. We met the woman who spent many years organizing and sorting through the costumes, as well as figuring out how to display them. She was lovely, and of course it was amazing having the person who organized the museum tell us a bit about the costumes personally. We then met with Esra's (Ajda' aunt) dear friend, Dimpoo, whom we learned is also a princess from a northern region. She is a character! We love her! We are lunch with her along with the curator in the staff quarters (also beautifully restored), before heading back to our hotel. Esra is the owner of a 1912 Rolls Royce that has won many awards for its prestige condition it has been restored to (thought of you Dad!). Usually it is on display here but unfortunately it was at another car show elsewhere in India!

Although I have not met Princess Esra Jah, I hope to in the future. Her work is seriously amazing here in Hyderabad. It's very inspiring to see a woman, albeit an influential woman, doing such difficult work so tastefully and beautifully. It's clear that restoration work is her calling in life. To take her ex-husbands dynasty and bring it back to life on her own... its just so wonderful. So many places we have been to in India are just ruined by tourism, by neglect, by greed... I cannot even explain how refreshing it is to see honest restoration work being done in an effort to truly preserve India's royal heritage, history, and culture. Each palace has taken ten years to complete. On Sunday we are doing a historical walk around our hotel to rooms not open to the public so I will be sure to take more photos.

I'm also so thankful to be her guest here at Falaknuma Palace. She has made sure that we are very well taken care of... And I am seriously in heaven. I can't imagine ever being able to have a vacation at a place like this, with this sort of service and opportunity to privately view museums, with a friend on my own dollar, so I'm very thankful for the 4 days we have here.

Tonight we go to the fort to watch a light and sound show. We aren't sure what this will entail... I keep envisioning some psychedelic laser show with Zeppelin playing in he background haha but I'm sure I'm way off.

Ill write about it in my next post!

Ps. I think they think we are a couple. They drew us a rose petal bath yesterday and told us "to enjoy together" hahaha. In Mumbai I think they thought the same thing, putting towel swans and rose petals on our bed. This WOULD be a gorgeous honeymoon destination... However, we are in the wrong company. Haha