Listening to: Paris... Demain Matin by Djako
I know what it's like to be a princess.
As somewhat "honored" guests here at Falaknuma Palace, our arrival was as grand as it would have been if we were arriving in the palaces hay day. We were picked up at the airport by three men... Someone who assisted us with our "bags" aka backpacks (oh my god how silly and ironic did that feel! Having a man in a suit wheel our huge backpacks for us Hahahaha), a butler, and a driver.
We loved it here the moment we desperately stepped off of the plane. Perhaps the air smelled so fresh because we had been breathing in recycled airplane air after someone had vomited curdled milk. Regardless, it was fresh and warm and soft to breath in after Delhi.
The streets are so much calmer! Still crazy by North American standards, and they still prefer to use their horn when given the option of horn or brake, but somewhat miraculously it seems that drivers here have opted for using their eyes, their mirrors, and their common sense before laying on their horns. A miracle!
We pull up to the palace gate and have to go through the standard car search and metal detector routine that is now compulsory at all Taj Hotels. Then we are greeted by a real, antique, fully-function carriage complete with a gold-thread embroidered sun umbrella, a foot man, a driver, and two white horses. The princess experience begins.
We arrive and are greeted by two heads of the hotel, as well as more butlers, and a man with a scepter. We were offered a choice of three welcome drinks: Perrier, ginger lime water, or jasmine perfumed water... All hand squeezed (of course). We were shown the view while we finished our drinks and cool rose scented towels were placed on our foreheads.
Then the man with the scepter did some routine where he walked up a step and stomped and repeated this action then walked, etc etc. we were told this is what would have been done when the palace was used by the royals. As we followed him up the stairs towards the lobby, we suddenly felt things falling on us. We looked up and literally thousands of rose petals began sprinkling down on us. We tried our very best not to completely lose our shit at this point because... Princesses do not lose their "shit", and that's the role we had to play. It was beautiful, but both of our faces were bright red.
Before we entered the lobby, which is not really a lobby because the hotel is laid out as if it were in its glory days and is well lived in, we were sprinkled with rose water and given a bracelet of little white flowers. We're were then introduced to ANOTHER butler who took over and showed us around a bit.
This place is huge! And complicated. We saw the old library first. It contains 5000 books, many of which are first editions, including an original book by one of the titanic survivors, and a complete Encyclopedia Britannica. Then we were showed some of the gardens, the two restaurants, the gym, the spa, and the gorgeous pool (which I'm dying to get to!). We learned that the pool was formerly the water reservoir, and that the banyan tree that shades it is more than 100 years old. The pool is completed with a small waterfall that cascades down a natural rock. It's very well done.
That's something about this place... It's very well done. You don't feel as if you are in a hotel, you feel as if you are a guest in the palace. There's seating areas and carpets and antique furniture in the halls that makes the whole place feel very comfortable and loved in. There's no cutting corners on costs in this place either. The richest fabrics, finest stone and wood, and tiny attention to detailed everywhere, including the murals, all adding to the rich warm feeling it evokes.
Our room is more like my dream apartment. The ceilings are super high, and the motif is a warm sage green color. There are 4 rooms:
The living room, which had a seating area, TV, writing desk, coffee table, and balcony access.
The bedroom complete with a small canopy of the king size bed, Egyptian cotton sheets, lots of windows, a TV, desk, and access to the balcony, which overlooks a fountain and courtyard.
The dressing room, designed for two, with closets and a stand up mirror.
The washroom has an amazing shower, double sink, huge bathtub against a huge complexly mirrored wall, candles, all the amenities including body scrub for the bathtub, a thin daytime robe each, and a thick plushy robe each (which we slept in!)
All rooms are decided by shuttered wooden doors, including the main entrance to the hallway (glass doors are also there to provide more privacy.
Ajdas aunts personal maid of ten years is here to assist us. It's going to be awesome having clean clothes! She is a very sweet woman we like her a lot.
The food here is great. We were assured we can eat anything and everything here with no risk... So yesterday Ajda had prawn curry and I had a traditional Huderabad curry with chicken. Both were excellent. Tonight we will try the hotels other restaurant that has Mediterranean cuisine... I may even be bold and order steak!
Today I had poached eggs, fresh fruit, fresh oj, fresh apple carrot ginger juice, a glass of champagne, and half a croissant for breakfast. See- told you I know what it's like to be a princess! After we visited Chowmahalla Palace, which was closed to the public (Fridays are Hyderbads Sundays) but open for us! Amazing! Ajdas aunt has fully restored it and it is now a museum open to te public. There are many old photographs (see the one of Ajda beside her aunt and uncle below!), and personal belongings there like china and weapons... some are a couple of hundred of years old. This is also where her aunt had her coronation. The hall is absolutely beautiful, photos will be below. She still throws parties in another area of the palace grounds, not open to the public, which we were able to go see. My favorite part of the museum, besides the grand , were the costumes on display. We met the woman who spent many years organizing and sorting through the costumes, as well as figuring out how to display them. She was lovely, and of course it was amazing having the person who organized the museum tell us a bit about the costumes personally. We then met with Esra's (Ajda' aunt) dear friend, Dimpoo, whom we learned is also a princess from a northern region. She is a character! We love her! We are lunch with her along with the curator in the staff quarters (also beautifully restored), before heading back to our hotel. Esra is the owner of a 1912 Rolls Royce that has won many awards for its prestige condition it has been restored to (thought of you Dad!). Usually it is on display here but unfortunately it was at another car show elsewhere in India!
Although I have not met Princess Esra Jah, I hope to in the future. Her work is seriously amazing here in Hyderabad. It's very inspiring to see a woman, albeit an influential woman, doing such difficult work so tastefully and beautifully. It's clear that restoration work is her calling in life. To take her ex-husbands dynasty and bring it back to life on her own... its just so wonderful. So many places we have been to in India are just ruined by tourism, by neglect, by greed... I cannot even explain how refreshing it is to see honest restoration work being done in an effort to truly preserve India's royal heritage, history, and culture. Each palace has taken ten years to complete. On Sunday we are doing a historical walk around our hotel to rooms not open to the public so I will be sure to take more photos.
I'm also so thankful to be her guest here at Falaknuma Palace. She has made sure that we are very well taken care of... And I am seriously in heaven. I can't imagine ever being able to have a vacation at a place like this, with this sort of service and opportunity to privately view museums, with a friend on my own dollar, so I'm very thankful for the 4 days we have here.
Tonight we go to the fort to watch a light and sound show. We aren't sure what this will entail... I keep envisioning some psychedelic laser show with Zeppelin playing in he background haha but I'm sure I'm way off.
Ill write about it in my next post!
Ps. I think they think we are a couple. They drew us a rose petal bath yesterday and told us "to enjoy together" hahaha. In Mumbai I think they thought the same thing, putting towel swans and rose petals on our bed. This WOULD be a gorgeous honeymoon destination... However, we are in the wrong company. Haha